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| Surfing basically is...accelerating like an aquatic dragster with the goal of catching a rideable ocean wave or swell. The surfer aims to match his/her paddling speed to that of the moving wave. The two in a sense “get married” There is beauty in balancing the paddling speed, timing surfer motion, and achieving placement so it all happens. The successful surfer cannot hesitate. If it sounds like hard work, it is...but the reward of waveriding is indescribable. The word “stoked” (being excited) has & continues to be used. Surfing is not without risk, being late can lead to falling off the board getting injured or even death from drowning. Part of the goal of this website is to minimize the risk of the latter. (see “injury prevention”)
BODY CONDITIONING |
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| INJURY PREVENTION Injury prevention...involves managing falls/wipeouts. Wave riding is exhilarating but does lead to more risk in the nature of the surge. One risk is as the wave moves landward, the water depth obviously gets shallower exposing more of the hard sand floor &/or harder & sharper reefs. Practice must be done to deal with it like a dry land fall. Practicing rolling off the board onto the back can minimize neck injury. Basic gymnastic/martial arts type training on a mat will help to manage a wave wipeout or if the board runs aground. While most surfers have the common sense to bail when a ride morphs into a dangerous situation occurs, it might happen as a surprise. Managing the wipeout is the name of the game of surf conditioning on dry land. Pure aquatic wipeouts are the more common falls usually with larger surf > 5ft, a turbulent experience. Practicing staying calm during one involves maximizing comfort with water skills. This will come from doing as much swimming in pools, competitive, private, even better wave pools & best at the beach. Again, managing them is matter of practicing calmness, holding breath during immersion, & the next piece of advice-protecting the head & neck. Another wipeout hazard is the board itself striking the head & other body parts. Protecting the face & head with a boxing type defensive arm position is a good deterrent to serious injury. Surfers all accept the price that they may become like a human rag doll in the churning surf if they fall off. Every dedicated surfer has been there. |
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EVERY EFFORT IS MADE TO DO BUSINESS IN AN ECO-FRIENDLY GREEN FASHION © 2008 Copyright Trilogy Board Sports, LLC • Contact us at:info@trilogyboardsports.com |
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