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surf
surf
 
  Surfing basically is...accelerating like an aquatic dragster with the goal of catching a rideable ocean wave or swell. The surfer aims to match his/her paddling speed to that of the moving wave. The two in a sense “get married” There is beauty in balancing the paddling speed, timing surfer motion, and achieving placement so it all happens. The successful surfer cannot hesitate. If it sounds like hard work, it is...but the reward of waveriding is indescribable. The word “stoked” (being excited) has & continues to be used. Surfing is not without risk, being late can lead to falling off the board getting injured or even death from drowning. Part of the goal of this website is to minimize the risk of the latter. (see “injury prevention”)

BODY CONDITIONING
Getting in shape…involves a few things including knowing how to swim. While it is possible to surf without that skill, this company discourages it. Freestyle or crawlstroke swimming will strengthen paddling skills which the surfer typically does on the belly atop the board. The two are closely related but not identical.
The main difference lies in the lack of torso rotation. Swimming involves long axis rotation while surfpaddling does not. In addition, a board bourne surfer usually does not kick.
  
From a weight training point of view, the surfer should develop the following paddling or related muscles:

Latissimus (mid back muscles on the sides)
  
Triceps (back of the upper arms)
  
Biceps femoris (back of thigh)

  
First two muscles are bio mechanically involved in paddling. The last one applies to those who paddle with the knees bent, lower legs up. Strengthening these leg biceps will prevent cramping during the first few lessons/wave sessions.
  
Changing positions from prone to standing is also called popping up.
The standing surfer will have a leading or trailing leg. It is the following muscle which will see much action during this change in position:
  
Adductor (inner thigh):
This muscle closes the legs, & gets stressed during the early sessions. In fact many instructors push the student into the wave so as allow more popping up practice. As with the the leg biceps, it will end up cramping or worse get strained with this new workload from popping up.
  
Getting in shape involves the mind as well. The following saying is very true in waveriding: He (or she) who hesitates is lost.” In preparing body reflexes for surfing locally or distant shores, reflexes can be honed to react more confidently & in less time. Minimizing mind hesitation & doing visualization can become health training to get in shape.
  
The spirit of surfing needs very little preparation. Just the prospect of catching a wave is stong enough incentive. This is one of the few sports that rewards the participant with nature driven sensory experience.

  surf
INJURY PREVENTION
Injury prevention...involves managing falls/wipeouts. Wave riding is exhilarating but does lead to more risk in the nature of the surge. One risk is as the wave moves landward, the water depth obviously gets shallower exposing more of the hard sand floor &/or harder & sharper reefs. Practice must be done to deal with it like a dry land fall.
  
Practicing rolling off the board onto the back can minimize neck injury. Basic gymnastic/martial arts type training on a mat will help to manage a wave wipeout or if the board runs aground. While most surfers have the common sense to bail when a ride morphs into a dangerous situation occurs, it might happen as a surprise. Managing the wipeout is the name of the game of surf conditioning on dry land.
  
Pure aquatic wipeouts are the more common falls usually with larger surf > 5ft, a turbulent experience. Practicing staying calm during one involves maximizing comfort with water skills. This will come from doing as much swimming in pools, competitive, private, even better wave pools & best at the beach. Again, managing them is matter of practicing calmness, holding breath during immersion, & the next piece of advice-protecting the head & neck.
  
Another wipeout hazard is the board itself striking the head & other body parts. Protecting the face & head with a boxing type defensive arm position is a good deterrent to serious injury. Surfers all accept the price that they may become like a human rag doll in the churning surf if they fall off. Every dedicated surfer has been there.
 

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